Can i use nitrous with a supercharger

But to answer your question, yes you could hook up a dry kit to a sc. But why go around purging n20? To intimadate other driver? Why not build you car and jack up the boost on the sc and just kick their ass. Thats much more impressive than purging as you are getting pulled on Originally posted by maxspeedhonda Well if thats what you really want it for, it would be cheaper to just fill with co2 and purge that.

Originally posted by Neutrino he said his car is a show car Originally posted by Sluttypatton You can combine pretty much any mods you can think of, but as maxspeed said, its better to just stick with lots of boost. Nitrous does the same thing, but instead of adding more air, oxygen-rich nitrous oxide is injected to support the combustion process. Nitrous, truly, is liquid horsepower with the ability to boost torque to the limits of an engine's ability.

Nitrous contains 36 percent oxygen by weight, with nitrogen as the other component of the chemical compound. Under the heat of combustion at degrees fahrenheit, the compound separates, releasing oxygen that supports burning more fuel, thus making extra power.

The nitrogen component stabilizes the process. Modern nitrous systems consist of two circuits: one injects extra fuel, which actually makes the BTUs that produce the power, and the other is the all-important nitrous oxide, there to support the burning of that extra fuel. With solenoids controlling the injection of the added fuel and nitrous, more power is literally the flip of a switch away.

Unlike a normally aspirated engine, the output per cube with nitrous isn't limited by the efficiency and displacement of the engine. Big-block torque numbers or more across the entire rpm range are no problem with squeeze and, by definition, that added torque is added horsepower. Unlike a conventional supercharger that creates heat when building boost, nitrous creates a cooler temperature. The nitrous is stored under high pressure as a liquefied gas. Once released into the intake manifold or port, the liquid nitrous changes to a gas form.

As you physicists know, the rules of the latent heat of vaporization dictate that heat energy is absorbed from the surroundings in the process. For the rest of us it just means that injecting nitrous cools the intake charge, making a denser, more powerful mixture.

Nitrous oxide is a remarkable compound for adding power, but is it all sunshine? Two things can't be ignored-the mixture ratio and the physical power-handling limits of the engine. The nitrous-to-fuel ratio is a critical part of a system's design.

Nitrous oxide isn't picky about what it consumes. If there isn't enough gasoline in the mix it will eat plugs, pistons, and valves. While a lean condition causes major engine damage, running rich certainly won't cause catastrophic engine failure.

Even the most experienced car enthusiasts sometimes cut corners because they think they know better or they are trying to take shortcuts with time or money or both. If you do your homework, spend the money and take your time, forced induction and nitrous are perfectly safe. More central to this article is that they are even better together Forced induction of any kind involves compressing air to high pressures.

The thermodynamics of it are very straight forward. Not only will you raise the temperature of the air charge because you're compressing it, but compressor work goes up exponentially with the desired outlet pressure, meaning your compressor has to work harder and harder to get you the pressure you want, which puts strain on the engine one way or the other unless you have an electric supercharger.

So you have 2 factors working against you. One, the resistance on the engine makes it more prone to knock and 2, the increased intake air temperature makes the engine more prone to knock. To counter this double whammy, you have to reduce engine timing to inhibit knock and decrease your AFR to get a richer mix that will act as a coolant.

On top of all of that, in the summertime, the air is warmer, to begin with, so you've got to lower your timing even more! Temperature is your enemy when it comes to boost, so these mods do their very best in winter. Remember that point. Winter is good for boost. Nitrous oxide doesn't have this sensitivity to air temperature because the nitrous decomposes at combustion temperatures, which means by the time the spark goes off it doesn't matter anymore what the timing was.

The nitrous will hit after the spark, not before. The problem with nitrous is maintaining bottle pressure. Nitrous is a compressed cryogenic gas. When it comes out of liquid form, it cools everything around it, rapidly, including the bottle. This makes the bottle super cold and reduces the bottle pressure. The longer you spray, the greater the pressure will drop and the less power you'll get from it.

This means nitrous works opposite to blowers with respect to temperature. Nitrous likes the hot summer weather because the bottle won't cool off as quickly and will maintain pressure longer, yielding more power.

If you haven't picked up on it yet, it seems these 2 mods pick up the slack for each other. Having both installed means you can use either one depending on the climate. Let's get to that. In theory, using either one mod or the other, depending on the climate is a great idea, but you can't always use just one or the other so what about using them both at the same time? As mentioned already, superchargers and turbochargers both use compressors to raise the air pressure going into your engine.

As mentioned, this heats the air up tremendously and requires you to protect the engine by lowering your spark, so the engine doesn't knock. I should also add that on top of this you've got to have colder spark plugs and plenty of extra fuel. Furthermore, many forced induction mods have what's called an intercooler. An intercooler is a special radiator which helps dissipate some heat from the air leaving the compressor before it goes into the engine.

That's because the air is so hot that it becomes exceedingly difficult to keep the engine from knocking on pump fuel even with your spark adjustments, if you don't cool the air off somehow. Intercoolers are often necessary and add complexity and weight to your supercharger. Enter nitrous oxide! Nitrous oxide is the perfect substitute for an intercooler. In fact, it's orders of magnitude better. Instead of passively radiating heat away from the intake air, you're shooting cryogenic mist into it, instantly dropping the temperature by degrees or more.

This has several benefits. First, you don't need an intercooler, and if you've got one anyway, you're helping it along big time.

Second, if the outlet of your supercharger is cold, the pressure drops. When the pressure drops, the compressor has less work to do so it spins up. When it spins up, it does more work and compresses the air more. Eventually, this recursive looping reaches a new equilibrium point with the compressor working more efficiently and yet producing greater outlet pressures at a lower temperature than before. Third, the nitrous oxide still hasn't decomposed yet so on top of the gains from its cooling effect on the air, it's still going to add yet another or whatever size shot you selected for your system horsepower on top of everything else AND you can do all this without having to retard your spark as much as you would have before.

You will still need high octane fuel, cold plugs and plenty of fuel enrichment for this to work correctly but it is the perfect modding combo if there ever was one.

It is very very very important that you tune your car properly and have all the supporting hardware you need before you attempt to activate both your blower and nitrous together.

Nitrous makes forced induction less likely to cause damage to your engine per unit horsepower added but only if you tune it properly and have the right equipment.

If you have the wrong plugs, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, MAP sensor, fuel injectors, gas or tune, you will get bitten, and it only takes one time to blow an engine and put yourself in a whole lot of debt. Step one, upgrade all of the equipment that's needed to support both mods. Buy new spark plugs, injectors, map sensor, etc. Then use your tuning tool to calibrate them in the ECM. You can't change plugs, map sensors or injectors without calibrating them or you won't get what you think you're getting.

All of these pieces of hardware reference their own tables that are different from one manufacturer to another, from one model to another.

Once you've dialed in all your supporting hardware go into your VE table or your MAF table do both if you don't know which table you're using and richen up all the cells that are above kPa.

Don't be stingy. Add more fuel than you think you need and then go to your spark tables and lower the spark by a couple of degrees in all cells above kPa. Then install your blower and conduct several road scans while under wide open throttle to see if you have any knock.